Nōksu, owned by Bobby Kwak and Joseph Ko (Baekjeong Korean BBQ) and headed by 20-something wunderkind of cooking Chef Dae Kim, signifies a deep and clear valley in the mountains, which is quite apropos considering that the restaurant is located down the staircase of the subway station on the NE corner of Broadway and 32 Street. Designed by Claire Soojin Kim the space is mysterious and neat, inspired by Korean ink-and-wash paintings. Chef Dae is Korean-born and found his calling here in the U.S. by reading cookbooks cover to cover. His multi-course tasting menu will serve interpretations of Korean fare, American fare with Korean flair, maybe a little French, a little Japanese, and anywhere else Chef Dae pulls his inspiration from.